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                                                                      162							152
                                                                      
                                                                      	on Harfleur;  no perceptible difference, while every town
                                                                      in Italy has a separate style.  Note also the vile
                                                                      affectation of the statue of Madonna under central niche
                                                                      between doors, while the mere sculpture is very good;
                                                                      but so low in feeling so far inferior even to the Bon af-
                                                                      fectation, which has still some chasteness and dignity
                                                                      about it, here all lost in French attitudednd drapery
                                                                      Effigies     	The Effigies of the Popes in the cathedral are miserably
                                                                      poor.  The tabernacle of Jean struck me from its excessive
                                                                      foolishness as compared to Verona - the Unquiet pastry
                                                                      cook filigree look of it - the undetermined system of
                                                                      support, as if were all stuck together with glue - the 
                                                                      curious semipieces semi buttresses;  the shafts without
                                                                      capitals, the arches without beginning or spring - the 
                                                                      irregularly scattered ornament  How different from the
                                                                      nobly organised simplicity of Verona.  Yet its parts
                                                                      are pretty;  two angels at each end - restored - but 
                                                                      their wings, deliciously thrown, and the gables of the
                                                                      small arches pierced with pretty starry six foils.
                                                                      A Romanesque altar - once the high altar - is quite in-
                                                                      valuable in comparison.  It has whirling leaves;  almost
                                                                      Whirling leaves  Byza[n]ntine in feeling with in one case, a small bird,
                                                                      in the other a doubtful breast, set in the middle of
                                                                      each wheel - Grotesque and intensely ugly heads holding
                                                                      the stems in their mouths, and then their

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[Version 0.05: May 2008]