162 152 on Harfleur; no perceptible difference, while every town in Italy has a separate style. Note also the vile affectation of the statue of Madonna under central niche between doors, while the mere sculpture is very good; but so low in feeling so far inferior even to the Bon af- fectation, which has still some chasteness and dignity about it, here all lost in French attitudednd drapery Effigies The Effigies of the Popes in the cathedral are miserably poor. The tabernacle of Jean struck me from its excessive foolishness as compared to Verona - the Unquiet pastry cook filigree look of it - the undetermined system of support, as if were all stuck together with glue - the curious semipieces semi buttresses; the shafts without capitals, the arches without beginning or spring - the irregularly scattered ornament How different from the nobly organised simplicity of Verona. Yet its parts are pretty; two angels at each end - restored - but their wings, deliciously thrown, and the gables of the small arches pierced with pretty starry six foils. A Romanesque altar - once the high altar - is quite in- valuable in comparison. It has whirling leaves; almost Whirling leaves Byza[n]ntine in feeling with in one case, a small bird, in the other a doubtful breast, set in the middle of each wheel - Grotesque and intensely ugly heads holding the stems in their mouths, and then their
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